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Cornrows
by Camille Yarbrough
The Middle Passage
The majority of African Americans come from an area of western Africa that was
once part of three black empires, Ghana, Mali, and Songhai, which dominated the
region from 300 A.D. to the late 1500s. In the early 1500s, European countries
began a slave trade. Blacks from western Africa were captured, transported to
European colonies, and forced into slavery.
The Middle Passage was the route the slave ships took from the west coast of
Africa, where they boarded the African slaves, across the Atlantic to the
Americas, where the slaves were traded or sold. It was the most important part
of the “triangular trade”, the lucrative trade route between Europe, Africa, and
North America. Each country produced goods the other wanted and transferred the
products by sea, to the other continents. It was the longest and most dangerous
part of the journey for the slaves.
Africans on slave ships lived in inhuman and filthy conditions. Many became
victims of disease or starvation. The voyages lasted from as little as five
weeks to three months. Between 10 and 15 million Africans were brought over to
the Americas and forced into slavery. It is possible that approximately the same
number of Africans died during the voyage itself.
Cornrows
Cornrows, or flat braids, are tight braids woven against the scalp in various
patterns. They are created by picking up hair in a narrow row while braiding
hair or hair extensions. Cornrow braiding came from Africa but was also used by
Ancient Greeks as well as the Celts of Ireland. Any hair can be braided into
cornrows, as long as it is long enough.
Cornrow braiding can be directly traced to the Yoruba people of Nigeria. In
Yoruba, the braids symbolized agriculture, civilization, and order. Originally
cornrow braids were used to distinguish religion, status, ethnicity, and age.
They were a way for elders to pass on their culture and bond with the youth.
There are many different braiding styles that use complex designs and highlight
the importance of mathematics in the Yoruba culture. Depending on the complexity
of the design and the skill of the braider, cornrow braids can take hours to
complete. Once in the hair, the braids last up to six weeks with proper care.
During the Middle Passage slaves’ heads were shaved to prevent disease, which
had a powerful emotional impact on them. One way to secretly maintain their
culture was to re-establish the braided designs from Africa. The cornrow
hairstyles also helped slaves who worked in plantation homes to appear neat and
tidy.
After the end of slavery, many African-American adults began to straighten their
hair, and only the young girls continued to wear cornrows. In the 1950s, the
revolt against colonial rule in African countries and the Civil Rights Movement
in the U.S. led to the reappearance of African hairstyles. Cornrow styles
continue to be popular today, and are often seen on famous sports figures and
musicians.
Hair Culture
The African-American hair and beauty industry has had a major impact on the
culture of African Americans. In the 1860s, newly freed African Americans
created a demand for beauty and hair care products. The industry quickly grew,
and barbershops and beauty parlors became social centers in most African
American communities.
These shops became places for genders to bond, and their services became coming
of age rituals for young men and women. Because the braiding and hair care
techniques took hours, the shops developed as places for the passing down of
culture. The hairdresser was often a leader in the community and a source of
advice.
Of course beauty shops and barbershops are not the only places that tradition is
passed down in African-American communities. Many parents braid their children’s
hair, friends braid each other’s hair, and young people may braid the elders’
hair. In all cases, it is an opportunity to take time to sit, laugh, and bond.
Related Reading
Bintou's Braids
by Sylviane A. Diouf
I Love My Hair
by Natasha Anastasia
The Invisible Princess
by Faith Ringgold
Shimmershine Queens
by Camille Yarbrough
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Related Activity
Find a friend and practice making cornrows
Links
How to make cornrows
Author's website
Voices of the Civil Rights era
Martin Luther King Jr., Malcom X
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